Kumartuli: where clay becomes a goddess

In this North Kolkata neighbourhood rows of idols take shape before the pujas. How it grew, and how to visit.

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History of Kumartuli

After the British took over, separate districts were allotted to the Company's workmen, and the potters' quarter came to be called Coomartolly. The potters shaped clay from the river beside their homes into pots sold at Sutanuti Bazar. (Source: Wikipedia, Kumortuli)

Over time they began making images of gods and goddesses. Artisans in North Kolkata dwindled in the late 19th century, but the potters of Kumartuli survived. (Source: Wikipedia, Kumortuli)

What is made and where it goes

Kumartuli makes clay idols for various festivals and regularly exports them as well. The source does not name the destination countries. (Source: Wikipedia, Kumortuli)

The quarter lies mostly between Rabindra Sarani (formerly Chitpur Road) and the Hooghly River. The Dhakeswari Mata Temple stands on the river's eastern bank near Kumartuli. (Source: Wikipedia, Kumortuli)

How to reach

The nearest metro station is Sovabazar Sutanuti, an underground station on the North-South corridor of Kolkata Metro's Blue Line, at Jatindra Mohan Avenue, Sovabazar. (Source: Wikipedia, Sovabazar Sutanuti metro station)

Sovabazar Ahiritola and Bagbazar stations on the Kolkata Circular Railway are also nearby, and bus route 43, Esplanade to Dakshineswar, is listed. (Source: Wikipedia, Kumortuli)

Visiting tips

πŸ’‘ Go in daylight: photos come out better and the lanes are easier to walk. Work is busiest in the weeks before the pujas, which also means crowds, so pick a weekday if you want a calmer look.

πŸ’‘ Ask the artist before taking photos, do not crowd over someone working, and never touch a half-finished idol. The lanes are narrow, so do not block the way. If you like what you see, buy something to support the artisans.

Questions

Where is Kumartuli?
In North Kolkata, mostly between Rabindra Sarani and the Hooghly River.
Which metro station is nearest to Kumartuli?
Sovabazar Sutanuti, on Kolkata Metro's Blue Line.
How did Kumartuli get its name?
In the British period it was marked out as the potters' quarter and named Coomartolly, meaning potters' quarter.
Are Kumartuli idols exported abroad?
Yes, Kumartuli is reported to export idols regularly.
What is the best time to visit Kumartuli?
Work is liveliest in the weeks before the pujas, but so are the crowds; daylight and a weekday are a good choice.

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